Surfed this morning at the usual "morning with Brother" spot at 6:00am (OK, 6:14 this time....getting better). Waves were really fun, and empty again, except for these couple of guys. One guy was mid 30's on a boogie board, yeah a boogie board. The entire stretch of beach was open, and he sits right next to me. I paddle south, he paddles south, couldn't shake him! Maybe he was dolphin averse, and wanted safety in numbers in case they decide to attack?! That was bad enough, but then his buddy, a surfer at least, paddles out wearing a helmet, yep a helmet. Not a Gath surfing helmet mind you, but a skateboard helmet. I'm all for safety and all, but does he know something I don't? It is about 2-3 foot beach break, and this guy is ready for Chopes. Or he just had brain surgery and wanted to protect his dome from getting hit by his board, and shouldn't be surfing already, but he loves it so much, he couldn't stay out of the water.......in which case I am a total douche bag for calling him out. But I'm going with "total donkey". In the words of Robert Downey Jr. in Tropic Thunder, opening today..."You never go full Retard." Don't worry, that probably won't be the only thing keeping me out of the pearly gates.....there's a long list.
Another 4 hours sleep last night, damn chick gymnasts! Surf tomorrow? You betcha!!
4 comments:
You should rename your blog "How to Sprint into Hell". I bet he just escaped the clutches of death by having emergency brain surgery to remove a cancerouos tumor and is just glad to be alive and surfing. I'm going with douche bag. Just bustin' your balls bro! see ya at 6:13 manana? Go US synchronized diving team!!
fcpHa, synchronized diving was on at 830. your twin is the one that is going to wreck me tonight..."nice going...Jerk". 4 jack & cokes aint helpin a bit.
I'm being stalked by a guy who wears swim goggles in the lineup. WTF? Goggles?
Glad I'm not alone, Sister
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