I see this billboard of Rob Machado every time I surf my local break. I pass by it at about 5:45am, before the rest of the city wakes, this is pretty much the only time I see it. I have Two distinct feelings every time I cruise by.
1. First of all, I see Rob solemn in the first picture, shit eating grin in the second, and back to sad in the last. Most of the people that will see this billboard are stopped at the end of the freeway at about 9am going to the cubicle farm, or 6pm returning from a boring day under the fluorescent sun. Since I have an "unconventional" job and set my own workdays, I have to agree with the middle pic. It reminds me how close I was to becoming a clock puncher, and weekend warrior. I thank god I get to surf every morning and all day midweek if I wish. So to that Mr. Machado, I say......HIGH FIVE!!
2. But then I look down at my Hurley boardshorts, t-shirt, wetsuit in the back of the truck, and Reef flip flops, and think DAMN, this guy is living in Bali (as of now), and traveling the world, surfing perfect warm water waves in tropical locations I will never get to see........all on MY DIME!! I then think back to all the hours of surf videos I have watched over and over and over of Rob destroying waves in Indo in September Sessions, and the like, while I was getting motivated to surf my 2-3' home break, and get stoked thinking of all those places,and waves, I wouldn't have seen otherwise. I get to live vicariously through Rob's adventures, and see those waves surfed the way they should be surfed. And if that means a $40 pair of boardshorts, or a clearance sale wetsuit (honestly, who pays full price for a fullsuit nowadays?), to send Rob out to bring us back some incredible footage of places I will never go, small price to pay. So to that Mr. Machado, I say........HIGH FIVE!!
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