Drug myself out of bed early this morning because I had to work. I knew the tide would be low. I figured the water would still be warm, so why not? I surfed by myself for an hour, fighting low tide rips. Surfed HHQ because the river was flowing out to the line up at RJ's. Walked out with wetsuit on and board under arm to find warning signs at the waters edge because of high levels of bacteria.......NICE! (note to self: renew Surfrider Foundation membership!!) Baptised myself in a bunch of NEW bacteria probably. Waves were good though, and empty line up......I wonder why. oh yeah, low tide + south walls = bottom picture......Ouch! Gonna have to try my hand at repairs, it's been a while.
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