I thought I would try to go out at the old stompin grounds of my youth today, instead of the regular spot. Stopped to check it out. Waves were decent, but the crowd, elbow to elbow!! To think we used to surf here everyday and get wave after wave to ourselves. Everyone there now is fairly good, but I counted at least 3 guys on each wave, and that wasn't even the SETS!
waves were nice enough, but I count too many buoys out there, whaddayu think?
Went directly to the usual spot, and found the waves bigger and empty. Surfed "Speedtraps" with a couple of super mellow, nice guys out.(thanks again girls for the Father's Day gift!!) Shoulder high combo peaks everywhere. I surfed from 10-12:30 on the shortboard, and still didn't want to get out of the water. a couple of the guys were actually wishing the wind would come up or conditions to get worse, cuz they had to get to work, or do something constructive today......hey, what's more constructive than this, right? They were still out when I left. I rode the shortboard and KILLED it......well, as much as I can KILL it nowadays. Transition from the fish to the shortboard was strange the first day, but it all comes back pretty fast....or was it just the waves were going off? By the last wave I was riding waves more like I used to. Fish and the Retros are awesome for catching waves and goin with the flow, and especially fun on those super small days, but when the waves are decent, and you want to take it off the top, they just can't compare to the shorty.
waves were nice enough, but I count too many buoys out there, whaddayu think?
Went directly to the usual spot, and found the waves bigger and empty. Surfed "Speedtraps" with a couple of super mellow, nice guys out.(thanks again girls for the Father's Day gift!!) Shoulder high combo peaks everywhere. I surfed from 10-12:30 on the shortboard, and still didn't want to get out of the water. a couple of the guys were actually wishing the wind would come up or conditions to get worse, cuz they had to get to work, or do something constructive today......hey, what's more constructive than this, right? They were still out when I left. I rode the shortboard and KILLED it......well, as much as I can KILL it nowadays. Transition from the fish to the shortboard was strange the first day, but it all comes back pretty fast....or was it just the waves were going off? By the last wave I was riding waves more like I used to. Fish and the Retros are awesome for catching waves and goin with the flow, and especially fun on those super small days, but when the waves are decent, and you want to take it off the top, they just can't compare to the shorty.
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