I took out the new shortboard today because the waves were supposed to be decent. I have been riding a variety of retro fish and rocket fish boards as of late, you know 22"wide x 3"+ thick. Well, to all you retro board and fish riders out there, that grew up riding shortboards, we all know who we are, when you go back to the shortboard.....and you WILL...you are in for a rude awakening. I thought I was in pretty good shape. I could paddle out with ease, catch ANY wave I wanted with only a couple of strokes, and surf for hours. Not on this little rocket. This shit takes work, son! But once you actually claw and scratch your way into a nice set wave, you wonder why you ever climbed aboard the retro bandwagon.........oh yeah, there's that long paddle back out to the lineup....now I remember. Hey, it duckdives like a dream though.....so I got that goin for me.
the dimensions that will haunt my shoulders and triceps
Waves were pretty clean this morning. Water was still warm. I had heard it had cooled a bit, so I wore the 3/2. Sun came out right as I was paddling out and I sweat the rest of the session....must have been all that extra paddling....Thanks FIREWIRE!
Crowd was in full effect. Not bad for a Sunday morning, but still quite cozy in the lineup. Potbelly crew was out, so you could still get waves while they caught up on the job, wife, kids, etc.

the dimensions that will haunt my shoulders and triceps
2 comments:
"potbelly crew", that's a good one. Wrong call on the wetsuit again, huh bro?
Yep, some things never change. Or the more things change, the more they stay the same
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