Why we do it

After surfing this morning, I got a chance to reflect on a couple of things I can't get enough of. And they all came together today during our new combo swell.

• Anticipating and psyching on the drive to the beach, knowing the waves are going off. "C'mon light, turn green for Chrissakes!"
• Not being able to suit up fast enough
• Discovering a light crowd working the second shift, while overhead peaks litter the horizon
• Getting peer pressure from complete strangers to take off on waves that are clearly outside your comfort zone
• Those guys hooting you as you kick out and paddle back out.
• Enough waves to go around
• Feeling the ocean heave like a drunken teenager on prom night
• Being able to stand up in a barrel
• Feeling it spit
• Watching guys get the best tubes of their life...again, and again
• That "CRACKING" sound a flawless lip makes as it lands on sheet glass
• Noodle arms in under an hour
• Riding your 6'8" and wishing for a couple more inches.....of surfboard
• Not having to spasdically pump to create speed down the line
• Riding your board the way our shaper designed it, and in waves he designed it for
• Instant camaraderie and smiles in the line up
• That exhausted, surfed out feeling in your back for the remainder of the day
• Sinus drain when you bend over hours after you surfed.

Yeah, it was that good this morning. Want proof? Head on over to http://dalybread.blogspot.com/2008/10/combolicious.html. He takes the best photos, and we all know one is worth 1000.