Fog it

I went for a surf this morning. I know, shocker! I had not been out for a week or so, so it was a big deal for yours truly. Tried to wait for the fog to lift, but it looked like it was going to stick around for a while. I took a leap of faith, as you couldn't even see the line up from the beach. It was nice to find sheet glass and combo peaks creating little runners at low incoming tide. You know all those guys you despise in the line up when it's crowded? Well, when faced with pea soup fog, a couple of them are a welcome addition. Surfing alone is not all it is cracked up to be. Where do you line up after catching one? How are you going to know what it was like yesterday, you know, when you shoulda been here? Who's going to ask you what time it is? (How come every other surfer in the water doesn't wear a watch? They make them waterproof now, cheap too.) Who's going to laugh with you when you're sitting in the dead silence of the thick fog, and a pod of dolphins pop up and breach about five feet from you, and scare the living shit out of you. A little secret, every surfer thinks about sharks while surfing, but will never admit it, and shall NEVER bring up the subject while in the water. Every time a dolphin surfaces, there is a split second, you think shark. Add sheet glass ocean surface, deadly quiet, solo session, and a leaping sea mammal within arms reach. Yeah, you will start paddling toward that crowd down the beach. Safety in numbers, you tell yourself.

I rode the green fish today. Had fun. But could have used the short board. There is always tomorrow, and I hear Santa Ana is going to blow tonight......nice.