Imagine shooting hoops at your local playground and LeBron shows up and starts playing a game of H-O-R-S-E with ya. Or your throwing the football around at a picnic and Phillip Rivers shows up and tells you to "Go long!" How about playing a round of golf at your local muni, and Tiger asks you if you could use a fourth. You get the picture.
As surfers, we are fortunate enough to be able to share our playing fields with the best surfers in the world. I have accidentally surfed with many professional surfers throughout the years, both locally and on vacation. But today was awesome. I had work to do in the morning, and since the waves and weather were going to be nice all day again, I thought I would grab a nooner at my usual spot. I found the crowd rather light, everyone either scored earlier, were at work for the day, or were too surfed out from the week to paddle out. Anyway, I found the waves peaky, bowly, and glassy, just not quite as big as yesterday. More playful, than critical. I didn't pay much attention to the dude filming from the beach. As I paddled out, I saw a guy take off on a nice peak, and proceed to destroy it. He ended with an impossible 360 air that is hard even to describe. I had seen that type of aerial surfing in a few videos of late, but never here, never live, never from the shoulder. "Well, I'll be damned....Jordy F'n Smith!" A few guys and I shared waves and conversation with him for the next two hours. Everyone felt like giving him every wave, just to watch what he would try next, but after a few minutes we were all just rotating and splitting peaks. I have to say, for all the hype, huge contracts, expectations, and attention he must get daily, he is a super respectful, down to earth guy who was just enjoying a great day of surfing some of our best waves in our own backyard. So, if you are watching his latest flick and you see him splitting a peak with a goofy, lanky, lurchlike fella on the red pintail, don't laugh too hard at the harsh contrast in styles.
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