South Swell, Like Porno for Goofyfooters

Well, at least it should have been. Beautiful day today, sun, surf, heat, glass, you name it. I spent two hours pulling into countless barrels, and made it out of exactly ZERO. I am still finding sand in orifices I never knew I had.

Take a look at pretty much the way my session went today:

Wait, you don't surf? It felt like two hours of this:


I once learned that the definition of INSANITY was performing the exact same thing over and over, expecting a different outcome.

"I was surfing INSANE today!"