Is EVERYONE at the contest this week? I surfed alone for the second consecutive day....and the waves were good. No one up the beach, no one down the beach, sun shining, warm water, wind stayed down til noon. I couldn't believe it. Total chamber of commerce day. I went down at about 9 o'clock, I was on flagpole watch the entire way, not a breath. And then to find the line up empty...sweet!
That brings me to a question:
If you take off on an overhead wave, pull in the barrel, and come out untouched, on your second session on your new board......and there is no one there to see it......Do you claim it?
You bet your ass I did!! Both arms up in the air on the kick out. Total dork! You would have thought it was a tow in at Chopes, instead of a state beach beach break. Yeah, I'm a Barney...but you all have done it too.
Don't lie
1 comment:
Nice bro, sounds like the retro single fin is working well for you! Glad to hear it, I hope I get a chance to feel it in some juice some day.
...and YES, of COURSE you claim it!
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