Right On Time

The surf today was OK. And by OK, I mean sunny, sheet glass, warm water, no wind, no drift (yet), no crowd, and head high (overhead for everyone else, I'm 6'5") southern hemi barrels throwing out top to bottom. Surfed speedtraps with a few people out at 10:00. Bunch of great waves. I let waves go by that would have got me amped earlier last month.

I had to blow the dust off the 6'8". I know, I know, it's an un-PC, un-PU, but when I add up sizeable waves + PU it usually = broken board and empty savings account. Believe me, when the waves are small, and they usually are, I ride nothing but locally shaped boards. I just want everyone to know, I feel guilty the entire session......until I pull into that huge, unmakeable closeout, and pull back an entire board with my leash.