The reports called for huge, walled closeouts at our local breaks, so Ian and I decided to get our travel on and hit up Trails in San Onofre. Reports were calling for 7-10' faces at Trails. Even though that prediction was, shall we say, really optimistic, and quite exaggerated, we caught some really fun waves, with no crowd on a day that would have sent us to the current paddling treadmill known as Huntington Beach whenever a extreme NW or S swell hits. No crowd, no drift, sunny skies, warm air, and decent waves once the tide dropped made for a pretty sweet Sunday. Now it's nap and football.
Morningface. This is what three hours of sleep looks like. It usually takes a couple of waves to shake the frown.
First look at what we came for. Even though it turned out to be smaller than expected, I always have a great time coming here. There is just something about hiking to a surf spot, that gives you that feeling of discovery. I'm sure it is a lot like Central and Northern California, but without the mind numbing cold water and hungry sharks.
We arrived to find this one guy surfing where we planned on going out. Paddled out, said 'morning', and chatted for a while. Pretty friendly guy, and didn't mind us tripling the crowd. This was one of the smaller waves today, but I didn't come here to shoot video, I came to surf.
No comments:
Post a Comment