To this:
After the last few days of fog and wind in the morning, I was pleasantly surprised to see the sun creep in through the blinds this morning. I knew the waves would be soft, but hoped there would be enough size to overcome it. Long story short, I showed up at River Jetties and it was slight offshore, if at all, and the sun was shining. I surfed alone for the first half of the session, and got wave after wave to myself. Shape was perfect for the Hynson, and the keel fins worked perfectly. With the twinzer fins the board is as fast as any board I have ever surfed, and sometimes too fast and impossible to slow down to carve. The Keels allowed me to throw the board into cutback after cutback, and with the slower speeds (albeit, not much slower) let me keep it right in the pocket. I had a couple waves with at least four figure eight roundhouse cutbacks. I loved this board before, and now I guess I love it twice as much. It is like two boards in one.
After the last few days of fog and wind in the morning, I was pleasantly surprised to see the sun creep in through the blinds this morning. I knew the waves would be soft, but hoped there would be enough size to overcome it. Long story short, I showed up at River Jetties and it was slight offshore, if at all, and the sun was shining. I surfed alone for the first half of the session, and got wave after wave to myself. Shape was perfect for the Hynson, and the keel fins worked perfectly. With the twinzer fins the board is as fast as any board I have ever surfed, and sometimes too fast and impossible to slow down to carve. The Keels allowed me to throw the board into cutback after cutback, and with the slower speeds (albeit, not much slower) let me keep it right in the pocket. I had a couple waves with at least four figure eight roundhouse cutbacks. I loved this board before, and now I guess I love it twice as much. It is like two boards in one.
Back to the beach. It was a super mellow session. Sunny and glassy and the dolphin(s) were out en masse, spotted at least twenty different ones. Also hung out with a family of sea dogs (sealions). I love Fall, and I love So Cal.
No comments:
Post a Comment