With Ian out of town, a solid south swell in the water, and needing to keep the little paddling endurance for Nicaragua Friday (Holy Shit, it's almost here!!), I got my ass to trestles this morning. Pulling up to the lot at 6:15, I discovered it almost completely full, yeah at 6:15! I guess word got out about the South Swell, or every weekend warrior watched the contest last week on their computer and wanted to surf like a pro. Needless to say 99.9% of them DIDN'T surf like a pro. I arrived at the bottom of the trail, locked up my bike, jogged over the ridge to find not only a nice glassy south in the water, but just about every surfer from HB to SD surfing right in front of me (Is it Friday yet?). It was more crowded than I have ever seen it! I got my share, didn't get run over by anyone, talked some story, and watched guys just get snaked right and left (literally). I can't wait to shed this fullsuit and dip into some 85* water, and get barrelled for a week, shit I may never come back.
Not your Soccer Mom's minivan. Seats? We don't need no stinkin seats.
The usual spot
Taints was firing (it taint Uppers and it taint Cottons)
Cottons looked like my nightmares, and that's only the people I could fit into the viewfinder.
Huh, only four guys on this wave, this was one of the 'empty' ones, trust me.
Looking North at San O's power boobs
Looking south towards San Clemente and Dana Point
Not your Soccer Mom's minivan. Seats? We don't need no stinkin seats.
The usual spot
Taints was firing (it taint Uppers and it taint Cottons)
Cottons looked like my nightmares, and that's only the people I could fit into the viewfinder.
Huh, only four guys on this wave, this was one of the 'empty' ones, trust me.
Taint Left from Sean Murphy on Vimeo.
Looking North at San O's power boobs
Looking south towards San Clemente and Dana Point
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