Local Score

Remember when there weren't a million online surf forecasting sites? Remember when you just drove to your regular haunt, not knowing what you would find? Well, today, I thought I would get a final surf in before the rain starts falling. Not expecting too much, I pulled up, checked it for about fifteen seconds, and almost hurt myself trying to wrestle on my fullsuit in record time. I surfed til my arms became noodles, then HAD to shoot some photos. Notice the lack of peers, just a pelican.

I paddled out alone. Let waves go by I would have killed for any other day. After a half hour, a couple of guys paddled out and apologized for crowding it out. Gems still went unridden. I guess it makes up for those elbow to elbow, two foot, walled days.