Dialed, But Not Wired...Yet

After getting the dismal forecast last night, I wasn't planning on surfing today. Thanks to an email from my diehard dawn patrol brother giving me the heads up, I turned a non surf day into a surf day. I rode the new hull. After seeing blog after blog claiming how awesome these hulls are to ride, I was still a bit skeptical, but mad curious, nonetheless. Looks like a short longboard. How can a small convex bottom have a big impact on how a wave is ridden? I have heard how they are notoriously hard to ride. After a few waves, I learned why it is so difficult. The same reason it is so easy to ride. You don't have to oversurf them, you just ride them. After 27 years of butt wiggling a thin, chippy thruster, trying to keep the board moving, just so you don't sink, the hull doesn't take much input. Less is more theory is really applied here. After the first few waves, and spinning out on every one, because I was trying to ride it like my shortboards, I just pointed it down the line and hung on for the ride. It is amazing. This board puts me in places on the wave I am not familiar. It surfs right in the pocket, and stays there. Whereas I usually take off, eye the shoulder, wiggle, pump, and race to it, the hull gives you confidence you will get there...eventually, but enjoy the pocket, stay a while. It also allows me to experience and enjoy that foot and a half of nose that is just plain useless on my shorties.

These boards will not make you look like you rip. They are not flashy. Although, they will let you experience the power and energy of the wave. Unless you are one of the few elite shortboarders with mad skills, a lot of us look like we are fighting against the wave we are surfing, with all the wiggling and hopping.

I am not saying I am getting rid of all my other boards, I'm not getting rid of the new truck for a 70's panel van, growing a fumanchu mustache, start wearing patchouli oil, beads, or burn incense, but this guy is yet another great addition to the family. Definitely a different kind of trip. Now I just have to learn how to slow it down. Hmmmm, a mustache might look good though...