I surfed yesterday at the river jetties. Waves were big and overhead. I got down to the shoreline where I usually stretch for a few minutes, but since it looked like a lull in the sets, and the ocean had gone flat until the next set, I skipped the stretching and zipped up, leashed up, and ran out into the Pacific. Unfortunately, the ocean decided to come alive at the same time. I must have duck dived no less than 25 head high waves as I paddled out. It had to be the most brutal paddle out I have had in quite a while. Once out in the line up, I caught a few real gems. I noticed I had drifted in front of the main river outlet and had to get out to walk up the beach to my van. As I bellied it to the inside, the water took on a chocolate milk color, and not only that, smelled like Chino. Straight up manure stench, and I was swimming in it. I looked like friggin E.T., extending my neck as far above sea level as possible, as to not get any of the cow shit milkshake (take note Baskin Robbins) in my cerebral orifices.......until a big double up wave snuck up behind me and dunked me into the abyss de caca. It hadn't rained in a week, but unbeknownst to me, the army corps of engineers thought it would be a great idea to relieve the pressure building up behind Prado Dam. Thanks guys. A loooong shower, and a couple netti pots later and I feel no ill effects. I don't know if it it good or bad news that I seem to be immune to almost all of the pollutants that get washed out of the SoCal Enema. After I die, you might want to donate my body to science, because I am pretty sure they won't pay for it.
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